Overview of the Pacific Northwest Coast

The Northwest Coast Culture Area is elongated, extending from north to south about 2,000 miles, but from east to west only about 150 miles at its widest. At its northern limits, it touches on territory that now is southern Alaska. As its southern limits, it touches on northern California. In between, it includes the western parts of British Columbia, Washington and Oregon. A large part of the Pacific Northwest Coast consists of islands, including Vancouver Island, the Queen Charlotte Islands, and the Alexander Archipelago, plus numerous smaller chains.

The many islands are actually the tips of submerged mountains, part of the Coast Range. These rugged mountains form a spine running north-south along the culture area. Manu of the mountains come right down to the ocean, forming rocky cliffs. There are numerous inlets an sounds along the shoreline, as well as numerous straits between the islands. Farther inland, in Washington and Oregon, another mountain range, the Cascade Range, also runs north and south.

The climate of the Pacific Northwest is surprisingly warm for the northern latitudes. That is because an ocean current, known as the Japanese Current, warms the ocean as well as winds blowing inland. But the westerly winds also carry abundant moisture. The mountains clock the moisture, which turns to rainfall, as much as 100 inches or more a year, more than in any other part of North America. Abundant springs and streams run from the mountains to the ocean.

These climate conditions led to the growth of vast forests. Giant evergreen trees, among the tallest in the world, cover most of the land, except mountain tops and rock faces too steep to have soil. The branches of tall trees form a dense canopy, blocking out sunlight. The forest floor is therefore dark and wet, with little undergrowth other than ferns and mosses.

Pacific Northwest people usually lived right at the ocean's edge on narrow sand and gravel beaches. Mountains rose up to the east. The island chains to the west offered protection from stormy seas.

The people situated their houses facing the sea. They build them entirely of wood taken from the giant forests. Cedar was the wood of choice. The master architects of the Northwest Coast used giant timbers for framing their rectangular houses. For their walls, they lashed hand-split planks to the framework, which ran either vertically or horizontally. They hung mats on the inside for additional insulation. The roofs were also plank-covered. Planks were used for flooring, sometimes on two different levels. There was usually a central firepit. Platforms ran along the walls for sleeping and storage. In size, the houses varied from about 20 by 30 feet, to 50 by 60 feet, to even 60 by 100 feet. The large houses provided shelter for several families. Northwest Coast peoples often erected giant totem poles outside their houses. Powerful shamans and members of secret societies dictated the significance of the faces on the totem poles. The craftsmen also used wood from the forests to shape large, seaworthy dugouts and to carve chests, boxes, masks and other objects. There were among the premier Native American woodworkers. They also made exquisite baskets, textiles and other goods. Villagers demonstrated their wealth and social status by the number of possessions they gave away in a custom unique to this culture area-the potlatch.

Since travel over the mountainous land was so difficult, the Pacific Northwest People moved about by sea.

Source: Encyclopedia of Native American Tribes by Carl Waldman